Tired of casual dining and not being able to hear your partner above the din of other patrons? Want to eat somewhere locally where the service, food and atmosphere is a bit more sophisticated and special? Then head to No. 4 Blake Street, North Perth – you’ll be glad that you did.

Casual by day and fine dining by night, we did the evening degustation menu, $90 for food only or $14o including matching wines, which gives you three courses plus treats before and in-between (more on that later). If you choose the wines like we did, champagne to start, a dessert wine to finish and a glass each with your entree and main, you’re best to book a taxi.

The Food

When we booked I was asked if I had any dietary requirements – I do, I’m a coeliac and can’t eat gluten. The first thing we were presented with once we’re seated was bread to start – sourdough for David, home make gluten free for me. I was impressed. The butter, three gorgeous little pats of it, was house made. David swooned over the salt and vinegar flavoured one, I loved the thyme.

Next was the amuse bouche – the pre starter – rabbit loin on celeriac puree with cherry gel. Yes, there are lots of gels, foams, crisps and some culinary tricky at play at No. 4, all of which deliver on their “rediscover theatre of dining” theme. It was yum.

For entree I went with the jerusalem artichoke, milk pudding, cocoa crumb and Manjimup black truffle, because I’m a truffle fiend. David had the buttered yabbies with blood orange gel, “boudin noir” and purple potato crisp. Both were terrific.

NO 4 Entree

Then came the al dente, another in-between. David was presented with three tortellini (sorry, I can’t remember the filling) that he said was possibly the best he’s ever eaten. As I can’t eat pasta, the chef made me a mushroom and truffle risotto – he must have been psychic.

For mains I did the duck and David the fish of the day. David’s fish came with a smoked sardine pate and mussels. And here’s where the Heston Blumenthal style theatre came into play – the mussel shells turned out to be edible. Think black potato chips (the colour comes from squid ink) shaped as mussel shells. We wouldn’t have had a clue without the waiter telling us. Loved it.

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No 4 main copy

Mains were followed by a palate cleanser – a mandarin sorbet on carpaccio thin slices of orange. Perfect.

Finally, dessert. Normally I’m a bit “meh” about dessert, but this was possibly my favourite dish of the night: rhubarb with a white chocolate cremeux, orange ash and blood orange. I know the white chocolate will outrage chocolate purists, but I thought it was divine. David did the passionfruit parfait with a chocolate (dark) blanket, caviar, curd and shards. He tried to swap half way through – I told him to go away.

No 4 Dessert copy

The service

Was brilliant. Attentive without being too OTT. The Sommelier knows his stuff and little touches like the hand rolled menu’s and proper linen just made it all the nicer . Courses rolled out seamlessly from the kitchen, with neither too much nor too little time in between.

David declared it one of the best meals he’s ever eaten in Perth and liked it better than Rockpool. That’s too big a call for me, but I can say I will definitely be returning to re-experience more of the theatre put on by No 4.